Why My Love Affair With Rishikesh India is Over

All my life, I’ve had a terrible pattern of falling in love with the wrong people who weren’t a good match for me. At the beginning of the relationship, I’m overcome by a sudden burst of intense chemistry, and then I spend years, or even decades, trying to make it work. Now I realize that I did the same thing with Rishikesh, India. At first, I was attracted to her picturesque beauty, exotic charm, clean air, and the mighty Mother Ganga. But like any new relationship, the once rose-colored glasses have turned dark. Now that the new relationship energy is over, I’ve begun seeing obvious red flags that I missed.

I returned to Rishikesh for one main reason: deciding if I wanted to move here. The yoga, spiritual classes, Ayurveda, and recreation are alluring. Plus, it’s cheap here, really affordable! I could probably live in Rishikesh comfortably on $1,000 a month. Unfortunately, I’ve decided that inexpensive living is not enough for me. After a month in Rishikesh, the clear answer was no. I can’t live here. These are the reasons why my love affair with Rishikesh, India, is over.

Constant Air Pollution

The first time I came to Rishikesh, in early 2016, I cried tears of joy when I saw the brilliant blue sky. Remember that I had just left New Delhi, one of the most polluted cities on the planet. I hadn’t seen a shade of blue in the sky for months. The pollution in Delhi was so harmful that I could stare directly at the sun on most days because it appeared blurry and orange through the dense grey smog. Rishikesh is in the foothills of the Himalayan Mountains, and she looked shiny and new to me compared to Delhi, a mere seven-hour drive away.

This time, I arrived in Rishikesh just a few days before Diwali, and the sky was already hazy. Every morning, I walked by little fires in the village where the Indian people were burning their toxic trash, including an alarming amount of plastic. Then, on the night of Diwali, the night sky was filled with fireworks. For the next ten days, the sky was horribly polluted in Rishikesh. There was a sad white haze in the air. I could taste the familiar poison on my tongue, and it stung my eyes and hurt my lungs. Many Indians told me it was just low clouds, but I knew better. It’s been a month now, and the sky is finally clear again, but it made me realize something. The air quality in Rishikesh will only worsen until the Indian people decide to do something about it, and I won’t live somewhere with poor air quality. I did it for a year in Delhi, and I’ve never been so sick and depressed in my life.

I Have Trust Issues

Like any new relationship, when the trust is gone, the relationship is usually over, and it’s the same thing with Rishikesh. What I have come to realize is that most people here only want two things from me: my money or sex, and most Indian men sadly want both. I will always be seen as a tourist in India, and tourists are only good for one thing: money. However, white female tourists are seen as a real prize and come with an additional bonus of potential sex. It’s true; I could get laid all day long here from young, frustrated Indian men if I wanted to, but I’m not interested. They’ve watched so much American television and movies that they think us white women are easy prey. Maybe we are compared to Indian women who are expected to be virgins until they’re married. Regardless of the reasons, I can’t live somewhere where I can’t trust half of the population.

Garbage Everywhere

The last major issue I have with Rishikesh is the garbage problem. Of course, it’s not just Rishikesh who has this problem. Most of India is littered with piles of garbage along the roadside, in vacant lots, and along the riverbanks. Every time I see it, my heart aches for our planet. I don’t understand how they can turn a blind eye to such a serious problem. Along with all the trash comes flies and rodents. The fly problem is so bad now that I can barely meditate outside because flies are constantly crawling over me, causing a distraction.

There are still many things I like about Rishikesh. Sitting beside the turquoise waters of the Ganga River has brought me a lot of peace, and Rishikesh has brought me much joy. It’s filled with great memories of a man I once loved, where I learned yoga for the first time. I’ve made great friends, and it’s caused me to grow, but I still can’t live here. Many foreigners have moved to Rishikesh, but unfortunately, it’s not the right place for me to live. Maybe, just maybe, I should consider Ensenada, Mexico, or Central America.