Every February through April, up to 2,000 gray whale mothers and babies converge in the lagoon Ojo de Liebre near Guerrero Negro, Baja California Sur, Mexico. The gentle giants call the waters homes while giving birth, mating, and teaching their calves essential skills to prepare them for the long migration north. Our friends told us that whale watching in the lagoon is a can’t-miss activity, so we made reservations and eagerly awaited our excursion.
Weather Watching
We took our time on the two-day trip south on Highway 1 from Ensenada and spent the night in an Airbnb in the town of Guerrero Negro. The weather was sketchy, with high winds and the possibility of rain in the afternoon. But we got lucky with sunshine and calm water on our morning cruise. They had to cancel the afternoon cruise, so if you go, keep a close eye on the weather and plan for some flexibility in your schedule if your cruise is delayed.
Our Tour Guide
Twelve of us prepared to head out in the boat as we put on our lifejackets and watched dozens of whale spouts from shore. Our guide, Sirena, spoke perfect English and was incredibly knowledgeable. Her mother was a guide with the same tour service, so Sirena had been raised around the lagoon and going on tours for as long as she could remember.
Whales Were All Around Us
The tour was about two hours long, and we got no action for the first half hour. We could see whales in the distance, but they were elusive, and I admit I felt dishearted, hoping we didn’t drive so far only to miss out on seeing some whales up close. Then, a giant grey whale came up next to our boat! It was at least twice as long as our boat and was only a few feet away! Watching it swim around us and listening to it surface and breathe was incredible, but I wanted it to come closer.
The whale stopped on my side of the boat and stayed in place just a couple of feet below the surface. It was lying on its side, staring up at us. I could see one of its eyes and longed for it to surface. Our friends said they had actually touched one of the whales the previous year, and I felt like the whale was considering surfacing but was being a bit cautious or shy.
Touching a Whale
I gently patted the top of the water and beckoned the whale. “C’mon, beautiful,” I pleaded. “Come get some love. I won’t hurt you.” I kept patting the water, and suddenly the whale surfaced, about a foot out of the water, nose first. I reached down and cupped its huge nose and gently stroked it! The skin felt soft, wet, and a little rubbery. I looked into its eyes which were underwater, and felt an incredible connection that is indescribable. It was like an ancient soul was trying to tell me something. My heart was racing with excitement, but I also felt tremendous peace. It was a bucket-list experience!
Mother and Baby Whale
A mother whale and its baby came to our boat shortly after that. Sirena said the baby looked to be about five weeks old. The mature grays have gray skin and are covered with barnacles, scars, and imperfections. But the baby was all black and seemed playful. The protective mother kept positioning herself between her baby and our boat. It was a fantastic interaction. The mother kept coming closer and closer to Craig’s side of the boat. I encouraged him to reach out and touch it, and he did! His face lit up like a Christmas tree! People on our boat enthusiastically applauded, and the whale moved to the stern, where other people reached out to pet it!
Our time on the water flew by too fast. The winds were picking up by then, so our captain steered the boat towards shore. I smiled from ear to ear on our ride back and wished we could go again the next day instead of driving home. It was an interactive whale experience I’ll never forget!